December 2019, day one began with us a flying to Toronto Island airport with Porter Air. Flying out of Windsor’s YQG (Your Quick Gateway) is just that. Sure beats the 3+ hour drive. YQG is a small international airport with short lines, walk across tarmac boarding, and baggage collection beside the gates. It is surpassed by the space, look, and service provided by the island’s airport coupled with the same from Porter Air. Going to Toronto couldn’t be nicer or easier.
Upon arrival it was a short walk to collect our bags, then take the ferry or walk the tunnel (we did) land side to the free Porter Air shuttle to the rail transportation hub of Toronto, Union Station. We have taken this route before to get to Pearson International Airport due to its comfort and ease. From Union Station there is a train shuttle that takes you directly to Pearson. Porter’s shuttle drops you across the street from the station and at the west entrance to the Royal York Hotel. We chose to stay at the Royal York for the night as our train to Vancouver boarded at 9:15 in the morning.
The Royal York is a magnificent piece of architecture that unfortunately has a price point to match, but with the stay covered by our RBC Avion card points, why not. Points didn’t cover our pre-dinner drinks at the bar so instead of Canadian Club at 41 bucks a shot we opted for a Wiser’s at $20/ shot. The accompanying ginger ale was $2.50, but it did come in its own tiny bottle. The restaurants and bars in the hotel were busy possibly due to a conference(s), there were middle aged men in suits everywhere, so we decided to walk to a local restaurant. Our 3rd stop, The Antler bar, was a location with no wait time, a winner. The 1st stop was a 45 minute wait for a table, the 2nd couldn’t estimate it.
The Antler bar is a good spot, good food, loud newer rock music, and a young crowd that seemed to pile in all at once. Seemed like 5 minutes after arriving the place was full. The Antler Bar is a social place. It has a couple 2 seat tables and many (couple of dozen?) long high trestle tables that sit 6 to 8 persons. One look at us and we were taken to a 2 seater.
DAY 2
Up in the morning, grabbed a coffee from Tims, and then across the street to Union Station and Via Rail’s business room check in. Comfortable seats, coffee and juices, check in information, what a great way to wait for the 9:15 AM boarding. At 9:45, without fan fare or announcements, we we’re off and on time. This definitely is the off season for this trip. There may be 20 passengers in our sleeper car section making for plenty of seats to choose from. We walked up into the viewing car with a bubble windowed roof that provides a beautiful panoramic view; at least it did once we got out of the covered station and the city.
The trip started off with smiles and excitement of a new adventure by a new to us way of travel. We chose to draw a line thru this adventure on our bucket list as it would provide a view of Canada that you can only see by rail and we would be able to visit family at the end. We have camped our way to Vancouver Island, north to Yukon and the Arctic Circle, and east thru the Maritimes to Newfoundland and Labrador. Coming soon is camping in the Northwest Territories. Getting anywhere by air is faster but you miss so much. The train was a slow speed to the start. We stopped and waited for 4 freight trains by the time we got to the Gormley Go station, passing it an hour after starting off. Then it was up to a comfortable steady speed through lightly snowed farm country. Brunch was served from 1130 to 1 with a nice selection to choose from. The banana bread was served warm, lightly fried, and with maple syrup. OMG we’re going to be fat. Washed down with bottomless tea, coffee, juice, or Mimosa! Why did we wait?
The rest of the day was spent in the viewing car and watching the scenery go by. The speed varied due to whatever reasons a train goes slow intermixed with stops for freight trains. We finally turned westward north of Washago, north of Orillia. Part of the track we we’re on is owned by an American outfit and freight moving is their business. Passing several lakes, large to small, frozen and snow covered to open water, water with the colour of winter cold water. A slow down and short stop in Parry Sound overlooking its little harbour and off again.
We had the benefit of sitting with one of Via Rail’s staff a couple of times and listened as he told us stories of his life on the rails over the last 40 years. Due to the increased freight traffic this train now takes 37 hours longer to get to Vancouver than it’s quickest run and 9 and a half hours longer than the fastest steam powered train! And that train had to stop every 8 hours to load water and coal.
We chose the first meal sitting. At 5:30 pm we sat at a table with two other people, an American from Oregon and a Canadian from Ontario’s Bruce Peninsula. Both had taken this trip before, the American all the way to Vancouver, the Ontarian never past Manitoba. Stories of each of our travels occupied our dinner. Reviews of the food served we’re not exaggerated. They are delicious and servings are more than adequate. I had cod, fish dinner for me when we are away from home as Jenn won’t allow it in the house. Jenn had prime rib and a slab large enough to warrant a doggie bag. Wrong time for the doctor to tell me to loose weight. We sat with a gentleman from the State of Washington who booked the trip as a last minute decision. He had vacation time to burn, so he flew to Toronto to catch the train and will fly home from Vancouver.
Due to the small number of passengers we were always able to get a seat in one of the viewing cars. During the high passenger season our fare would not allow us entry to the rear cars, plush, leather, newer looking, and a bartender. As it’s off season we could use it as could the others in our sleeper fare class. With all of us in there it felt a little too crowded so we stayed in our viewing car. Our new friend from Via told us these bubble top cars were only built in the 1950s. Made of stainless steel helped keep them in the condition they are in. Ours was dated in its look and faded colour, but it was odourless and clean. He estimated that this car was last updated in 1992. It had the charm and feel of travelling in the 50s with a little George Jetson in the trim.
Our sleeping berth was actually a private bedroom with a sink big enough to spit in, toilet room that you could turn around in, a 3 coat closet, large picture window and 2 comfortable upholstered chairs. When it can time to hit the sack the porter came by a folded the chairs to a flat 8″ above the floor and pulled out the beds. The first bed is a Murphy bed, pulled down to lay flat over the chairs. The second was pulled straight down from the ceiling. Beds are a twin size, felt a little wider but it has been years since I slept in one. The floor space remaining is more than adequate; having space to move around the entire width of the cabin. We were in cabin F which turns out to be larger than the others of this fare class. Cabin A and up do not have the floor space we did. The bedroom in our house is in a quiet country setting and my furnace is quiet. The noises of a moving train are not quiet. The motion is fine, laying in bed thinking “I’m sleeping on the train” is cool, but holy crap it’s noisy. I made use of the provided ear plugs and slept.
Jenn took the upper bunk and didn’t sleep well. Me and my ear plugs slept pretty much a normal sleep. Turns out Jenn’s mattress was a little too hard for her. We both found the pillows ok but only about half the size of ours back home. We each had two, but I would have preferred one full size. Not bad enough to consider bringing my own next time.
There are other sized cabins available at different price points. Step up to a cabin twice our size for a vast jump in cost or go smaller in steps. The sizes below are hallway cabins, curtains for privacy, a chair with a fold down bed, some with a private toilet that your chair faces. Not sure about 4 days of that view. Then there are the upper and lower bedroom berths with beds only, also in the hallways with privacy curtains. Finally there are the non berth seats for the economy fare. Signs on the rail cars told us to stay out of economy unless we paid that fare, similarly signs were posted on out sleeper cars advising entrance only by sleeper fare passengers.
Day 2
Meal service starts early at 6:30 AM with coffee, tea, juice, toast, and fruit. Hot breakfast starts at 8, then lunch around noon, and dinner’s first sitting at 5 PM today. Dinner is served early as today we arrive in Winnipeg. It’s a slow land way to get to Winnipeg. By car with 2 drivers you would make it in about 24 hours. By train, we left at 9:45 day one and are scheduled to arrive at 7Pm on day two – about 33 hours. But then, if you were the only driver, stopping for gas, meals, and motel it would be the same.
After a quick light bite and coffee, leaving room for the hot breakfast (my Dr will understand), we were back in the viewing car to wait for the sun rise. It’s 8:05 in the morning and still dark, in a dark tunnel like appearance with the dome lights on, but there is some lightening in the sky behind us.
By 8:20 it was light enough outside to overcome the window tint and the interior dome lights to show that we we’re in a roofless tunnel of sorts. Mile upon mile (or kilometer if you are of that kind) of trees. The view was snow and trees, some trees with snow, but more trees than snow. Just before 8:30 we passed a sign post declaring we are in Ferland, Ontario. Sounds about right. Ferland is not a town; its a Via Rail train stop located just north of Lake Nipigon, 300 kms north east of Thunder Bay, Ontario
Around 9 AM and we stopped at the short station platform in Armstrong, Ontario. Time enough for those who wanted a few minutes outside of the train for a leg stretch or a smoke. Then off again through a treed, snow covered country on a clear but cloud covered morning. A short while after leaving Armstrong an announcement came over that we just crossed a time zone. It was no longer 10:07 and coming onto lunch it was now 9:07 with lunch 3 hours off!
It was a quiet trip as the usual suspects joined us in the viewing car, each with something to occupy themselves, whether it was sewing, reading, sightseeing, thinking of food delayed. One was a young woman from Southern Australia, a teacher taking a break to spend 151 days travelling across Canada on a work visa. Then there was the retired gentleman from the UK who was vacationing in Canada, and the Canadian gentleman travelling to Jasper to visit friends and family. He is debarking in Jasper to catch a bus that will take him the rest of the way. Unfortunately for him he knows he has missed his bus already. Actually he found out that shortly after we left Toronto. Our Via Rail friend told us that we will likely be in Winnipeg on time, 4 hours late in Jasper, but on time in Vancouver. I’m hoping to be 4 hours late in Vancouver so we can be in daylight for our run through the mountains.
Twelve o’clock and off to lunch. The menu was brunch style and the selection was good as promised. We both had the Chef’s omelette with juice. At this sitting we we’re joined by a woman, a fellow Canadian, who moved to Australia for work in 1993. She was on the train to Vancouver for the same reason as us, on our bucket list and had the time to do it. As we travelled along we passed remote homes/cabins set beside the tracks. One had a Keep Out, No Trespassing sign posted. About the only one that would see that sign is someone traveling past on the train.
We made a short stop in the town of Sioux Lookout, rumoured to be given its name from the first nation band that lived in the area. They set watch in the area for the raiding Sioux bands. We talked about the choice of living here and in further remote locations compared to those that we chose. It is beautiful with the trees and numerous lakes but when you pass a CN location marker named Niddrie and see only one home I can’t help but think what do teenagers of today do without satellite?
At one place we pulled off onto a side track and stopped for 20 minutes while two
long freight trains passed us. Long enough to have a third engine in the center
of the train. We counted one train earlier which resulted in a count of
147 cars. That novelty wore off before the first train count was finished
but she persevered and let me know the count. I think these we’re longer,
but they were travelling slower. Once back up to speed a light snow fall
began resulting in steady streamers of snow kicked up by the cars ahead and waffling
back over the viewing car. Sioux Lookout was the last stop at a station
platform in Ontario, but there were plenty of stops and waits for freight
trains.
After lunch we returned to the observation bubble
viewing car and rode out the afternoon watching the country roll by, or sat at
a siding waiting and watching the freights go by. The delays are
plentiful and the mode of travel is not for those in a rush or unable to find
the time to relax but so far I would do this trip again. The rest of the
afternoon was spent enjoying the ride, talking with the other 6 passengers with
us, including our friend, the Via Rail service attendant who entertained us
with tales of the rail from his 40 years on this line.
Dinner was early tonight; we took the 5PM sitting as we arrive in Winnipeg just
after 7PM. With a departure of 9:45 it gave passengers willing to
walk quickly a chance to check out the city around the station, including
Winnipeg’s Market at The Forks of the rivers. It was cold, wintery, and we packed for
Vancouver weather so Jenn stayed aboard and used the Wi-Fi signal to catch
up. I got off just to stretch and to get a better Wi-Fi signal. You
need to take your Via Rail boarding pass to get back the train so I took my
Porter Air boarding pass. I don’t recommend doing that as it avoids a rather
nervous sneakily re-boarding. When I told Jenn, she said it all with her
“I knew it” look. Winnipeg is
the switch over point for the train cabin and food service crew. The crew boarding here will take us to
Vancouver and take the train right back to Winnipeg.
Off again at a slow speed out of the downtown and off westward through the
shrinking suburbs lit with their Christmas lights and into the darkness of the
opening prairie. I sat up in the lounge car reading a book until
interrupted by the rant of a TV addicted smoker who couldn’t come to grips with
no TV for the last two days, no Wi-Fi out of the station, and few stops that
permitted a person to get off for a smoke. I returned to the room and sat
by the picture window reading my book and catching the passing views.
DAY 3
I was up at 7 AM and sat on my bunk beside the window taking in the sights of a dawning Saskatchewan. Flat, treeless except the small tree stands and woodlots, there are long distances between dwellings. Sometimes several minutes would pass before we would come in sight of the next building. Small towns beside the rail line had large, tall grain elevators that the prairies are known for. The town of Watrous was the first one we came across when it was light enough to see. The town of Watrous is next to Manitou beach which is the Home of Danceland, the World Famous Dance Floor Built on Horsehair. Built in 1928, the 5000 sq. ft. original maple hardwood dance floor floats on top of a cushion of horsehair.
The second was the small town of Young declaring its presence with a very large billboard mural. Within a few minutes of Young we we’re surrounded by a freezing fog that frosted up the front windows, covered the trees, buildings, and grasses with ice, and cut visibility to a few hundred metres.
With freight trains ahead shunting in the yard we stopped at the Saskatoon station a little before 11:30 for a scheduled 30 minute stop. We took the opportunity to have lunch as several passengers got off to take a short walk. Lunch special was an omelette that Jenn had while I chose the bison burger sans bun, served with butternut squash soup. I was never a fan of butternut squash, any squash for that matter, until Jenn introduced me to her homemade soups, not so anymore. We were one of the few that ate this early so we had the table to ourselves.
The sun was peaking through a clearing sky as we assumed our seats in the observation car. We sat watching one of the 3 mile long freight trains pass by, stop and then back up. Apparently our 30 minute stop will be a little longer. At 12:20 we were on the move, eastbound while facing west. Backwards along the tracks we covered, watching the station get smaller, then out of sight, and pass under the highway. And we kept going back. Passed the Valley Rd landfill exit sign we passed an hour earlier until we stopped beside the Holiday Park golf course at the CN Howe stop. A few minutes later westward we were, switched onto a new track and on pass the station. Webb C. Ball would shake his head.
Our next layover of any substantial time was in Biggar, Saskatchewan. Bigger then some we passed, but still, it’s an optimistic name for this town. It has a great town slogan with a better slogan history. Apparently some drunken railway workers painted the slogan on the town sign by in 1914. The town adopted it in 1954. Beside the tracks is a very large barley processing facility as well as one of the largest number of idle rail cars, 100s maybe, I have ever seen. Most appeared to be grain carriers. Biggar has made its mark in this province and country. About ¼ of a million metric tonnes of Barley malt is processed here each year, it is the location of the largest white tailed deer shot, the Hanson Buck, and home of the late Sandra Schmirler, Olympic Gold medal winner and World Champion curler.
After sitting for some time I looked at my watch, it was 1:57. An hour and 37 minutes since Saskatoon and we haven’t gone that far and it’s still apiece to Edmonton. This trip is like watching the Super Bowl, 4 hours to watch a game where the ball is in play for about 13 minutes. At 2:10 we are back on our way covering still ice white frosted ground, trees, and grass. With no wind and a thin overcast the frosty vision should last the day.
Between putting along, stopping and rolling along we continued northwest towards Edmonton over land that was suddenly hilly, treed and many small lakes and ponds, all frozen over. We travelled quite a distance through a thin forest of shrubs and Birch trees that showed signs of recent forest fires. Distance is hard to estimate without a map or Google due to the varying speeds and stops. Just after 3 O’clock we crossed into Alberta and into a new time zone. It was now 2:05 PM again and dinner is at 5. There seems to be a pattern to the time change. I went to the bar and picked up a couple of cookies to hold us over. The cookie run took about an hour as I ended up meeting and then talked to a couple from the US east coast that, it turns out, travelled more of Canada than Jenn and I have. By the time I got back with our cookies Jenn had discussed my absence with the Steward. There was a tray of cookies and crackers on the table where I was sitting.
We passed through lots of little towns, some like Chauvin, home of Susie the Softball, the largest softball, others with large grain elevators, as well as vast areas of no buildings except the very few abandoned barns or small home. At 4:20 PM we pulled to a stop at the Wainwright, Alberta train station in a darkening sky. 15 minutes later we we’re on the move again in a substantially darker sky cover with a rumoured arrival time of sometime around 9:30 PM, a 5 hour trip. Sounds about right as you can drive there in less than 2 1/2 hours. This is definitely the trip to take if you want or need to shut out the world. Sit and take in the views of the Canadian country, eat well, meet new people (face to face!), all without being connected by wed, TV, or phone. We had another wonderful dinner this time with a couple from the Halliburton, Ontario area. It is easier and expectant that we will be sat with another person during meals by this time. New places, people, and shared experiences; this is a great trip.
It was dark when we arrived in Edmonton. Jenn hit the sack, actually, she climbed up the ladder to the top bunk. She chose it the first night and decided to stick with it. I read for a bit then turn in as well looking forward to jasper in the morning.
DAY 4
I was lying awake in bed as we pulled into the Jasper train station. It was still dark, it was snowing, and it was early. Before 6 AM early and earlier than we believed we would arrive. The station wasn’t open yet so there was no leaving the train. Once it did open we could disembark but nothing in Jasper was open. Some did get off to grab a coffee from Tim Hortons. We pulled out of the station around 9:30. The snow had almost stopped but not before it had covered everything and every tree branch with a thick layer of snow. I went for breakfast while Jenn had coffee in the observation car. I sat with 2 guys taking advantage of a travel voucher for Via Rail given upon immigrating to Canada. One was a recent immigrant to Quebec from France and the 2nd was friend of his visiting from France. Luckily they paid more attention in English class then I did in French, or likely any other class.
The rest of our last day was scenic views of the mountain valley covered in recent snow. Travelling at this time of year is much less crowded. The trees are bare so visibility is slightly better. There are fewer animals to see. To take advantage of the stops you need to pack weather appropriate clothing. Unfortunately, Via Rail only allows one bag per person in the train and that bag is slightly larger than an aircraft carry-on bag, so we skipped the winter clothing and packed for Vancouver. Full size suit cases can be travelled with but they are loaded into the baggage car and that is where they stay for the entire trip. By afternoon we were coming out of the snow and into a warmer, greener setting. We followed the North Thompson, Thompson, and then the Fraser Rivers and at point entered a valley named Eagle Valley due to the number of Eagles that can been seen there, and we saw lots. Each Fall, November to January, thousands of eagles gather in the Fraser Valley to feed on the salmon spawning. The Fraser Valley Bald Eagle Festival runs each Fall celebrating their arrival and has organized viewing and activities.
The train takes about 21 hours to travel from Jasper to Vancouver which means much of the trip at this time of the year is in darkness. We arrived in Vancouver in darkness. The city was wet from a recent rain and we left the train station to find the streets empty and skyway transit trains to the airport not yet open. We arranged a car rental at the Vancouver airport and with the shuttle not operating yet we hailed a cab and 15 minutes later we were at the airport. Turned out the airport car rental company was not at the airport with the rest of them. Another 10 minute cab ride and we were dropped off and picking up our car. Make a note to check the address and map location for “airport” service companies. A few days of visiting family as well as checking out the Capilano Suspension Bridge Christmas lights display we were flying back home.
If we do this again, which would be worth it, we will start in Vancouver and head east in order to see the eastbound mountains and valleys in daylight. Our trip was in early December so I think I would go a little earlier to avoid the snow, but stay outside the busier travel season to avoid the crowding. In peak season you are limited to the amount of time in the observation car so everyone shares in the view. In dead of winter it is possible and has happened that you get stopped due to deep snow or prairie colds freeze the train. As the passenger trains share the freight lines there are frequent delays and sometimes derailments that derail your travel plans. Book a week for the 4 day trip and no worries. Take electronic or paper books and or games to occupy your time. There are 120v outlets in the lounge and private rooms to recharge batteries. As noted earlier, there is wi-fi only at a few train stations and cell service drops outside of cities and towns, probably more than half the trip is without a signal. Which means there is 4 peaceful days and nights of no annoying passengers yakking on their cells phones! Time at each station stop is short so don’t expect to see much more than the station. You can arrange the trip so you can spend a day or two at any of the station towns. The weather hampers picture taking when it covers the windows and viewing out a window travelling at 60 mph/100kmh plays havoc auto focus.